Short answer: The garage is one of the easiest ways into a house. Check five things: whether the opener uses rolling-code remotes, whether the emergency-release cord can be hooked through the gap at the top of the door, whether the interior door to the house locks, whether the photo eyes work, and whether the door gets left open.
The garage is a common entry point for intruders. A few weaknesses are easy to miss, and easy to fix.
Check for an old opener without rolling-code security, no manual lock on the door, exposed emergency-release cords reachable from outside, broken sensors, and a door left open by habit.
Upgrading the opener, adding a smart lock or camera, and building good habits close these gaps. We can assess your setup and recommend simple fixes.
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On many doors, yes. A thin tool pushed through the gap at the top can hook the emergency-release cord and disengage the door, which then lifts by hand. Shortening the cord, removing the plastic handle, or fitting a shield blocks it. An old fixed-code remote can also be replayed.
Yes. Use the manual slide lock or a clamp on the track, and unplug the opener so a captured or cloned remote code cannot run it. Also lock the interior door between the garage and the house, which in many homes is the weakest lock on the property.
Openers from before the mid-1990s use a fixed code that never changes, and inexpensive devices can record and replay it. Rolling-code openers issue a new code on every press, which defeats that attack. If your remote has DIP switches inside rather than a learn button, you have a fixed code.
It can be, in two ways: it shows whether a car is home, and if it sits within reach of the release cord or the interior door, breaking it gives access. Frosted film, or replacing the glass with an obscured or impact-rated panel, removes both problems at once.
Tell us what is going on and we will get a licensed technician on site, on time.
